Unbeknownst to many locals, Ivanhoe Park Botanic Gardens hides just north of Manly Oval and offers a fascinating blend of history and modern respite in one of the Northern Beaches’ busiest areas: Manly.
We’re lucky enough to be greeted by dedicated volunteers, Liz Howe and Lois Clarke, who kindly arranged a tour, offering a glimpse into the history of one of Sydney’s oldest Victorian-style gardens, dating back to 1850.
The land was occupied by the Gayamaygal people for millennia, but during the colonial period, Henry Gilbert Smith began acquiring significant portions of land, determined to create a village reminiscent of Brighton, with tree-lined parks and boulevards.
The garden is home to over 400 different species of plants. With its extensive collection of native and non-native species, it was designated a Botanic Garden in 2006 and is also heritage-listed as part of the whole of Ivanhoe Park
Ongoing upgrades are largely thanks to the efforts of the ‘Friends of Ivanhoe Park Botanic Garden.’ Established in 2018, the group boasts over 70 regular volunteers and more than 300 individuals on its mailing list. Howe and Clarke, who both sit on the Executive Committee, are key figures, their passion for the garden clear as they lead us through.
The garden’s preschool was recently demolished, plans in place now to create a shaded area to relax. On hot days, the shade provides a cool respite, often feeling 10 degrees cooler within the garden.
With four entrances and various pathways, the park serves as a cherished walkway for locals who pass through on their way to Manly Beach. The area also holds significant sporting history, including being the grounds for the first Aboriginal cricket team to tour Britain in the 1860s.
As we wander through the garden, we encounter a diverse range of Indigenous and non-Indigenous Australian trees, including the towering Bunya Bunya Pine, which stands out among the other species like a Hoop Pine that was struck by lightning. Throughout the garden you notice small blue dots with numbers attached to each tree, part of the group’s effort to catalogue every one.
I’m fascinated by the unique trees, like the Quandong with its distinctive blue figs, originally spread by cassowaries and can be used to make jam. Or the black bean tree, which produces seeds that are highly nutritious but toxic if not prepared properly.
Birds are a constant presence, miners happily munching through a fig tree, cockatoos swooping, and a mix of lorikeets. A brush turkey has made several nests throughout the garden and is currently working on his biggest one yet. Among the wildlife, a powerful owl can be found hunting in the garden, adding to its natural allure.
The garden is divided into multiple parts, starting at the bottom with the Sun Lawn, a perfect suntrap for relaxation, featuring trees like the Australian Bottle tree, a species of Brachychiton – akin to the African Baobab tree. To the right is the Sensory Garden, exuding a wonderful aroma from plants like lavender. As a garden that sustains native and European bees, this is the perfect spot.
As you explore the many twisted and hidden paths, you’ll cross a small bridge featuring original stonework from the early 1900s, recently reconstructed. It sits above the rainforest gully, a vision of one of the Garden staff under Manly Council who sought to create a tropical oasis reminiscent of Queensland.
The upper part of the garden is home to newly introduced flowers like the Rock Lily, currently in bloom. In contrast, the lower part of the garden features more legacy trees, including ancient species like the Wollemi, Hoop Pines, and Queensland Kauri (Agathis robusta), which are Araucariaceae, a species dating back to the prehistoric era.
A defining feature of the garden is the large Small-leaved Fig, which towers above the rainforest gully with its broad, intertwined trunk.
One of the most surprising aspects of the upper garden is the site of the old Manly Tramway, which once connected Manly to the Spit. The site is currently roped off as the council plans to reconstruct it as a walkway with sandstone steps and interpretive signs detailing the history of the old transport route, all the way down to the Tramshed, now the site of Harris Farm.
“There’s always something different every time I come here,” says Howe, whose updates and photographs of the garden’s growth are shared in the monthly newsletter to all members, well worth signing up to. The park is even dog friendly too!
Become a Friend of the Park
Sign up at friendsivanhoeparkbotanicgarden.com
Celebrate Spring at the Garden by joining the annual Festival from 10:30am-2pm on Sunday 13 October, with everything from kids’ activities to BBQ snags, free yoga, music and more.
More to explore
Head here to visit more Secret Spaces to explore on the Northern Beaches.
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