When you think of opening a restaurant or café you don’t think of doing it next to a police station, and if you do, naming it the Cartel might not seem the obvious choice either. But for Bruzzese brothers Joe, Mick and Andrew their cheeky approach and larger-than-life personalities was exactly what the local community was calling out for in 2010. Originally furnished from Manly’s Vinnie’s, Mick says the vibe was aimed at being “just like walking into Nonna’s house,” cooking breakfast off a small camping stove top, a sandwich maker and the brothers’ mum bringing in Lasagna she made at home.
From these beginnings Belgrave Cartel was born. Nowadays it retains the warm vibe of Nonna’s house, but the menu is more refined. Some breakfast classics from the early days remain like Mick’s Mafia Eggs, but it was dinner TNJ (Tawny Nightjar to you) went to sample. We started with Whipped Ricotta with Pasta Fritta, the most decadent and moreish chip and dip with incredible olive oil got our tastebuds grooving, and vegan Zucchini Flowers stuffed with a chickpea and basil filling were light, crispy and delicate.
The drinks offering is a real feature, with a fresh seasonal cocktail list, a house craft beer the Cartel created in collaboration with Yulli’s Brewery, its Sopranos-esque label of the three brothers is classic. They have a small carefully curated wine list focusing on small artisan Australian and Italian wine producers with some vegan, organic and natural wines to round it out. We tried two different Sangiovese wines, a modern style from King Valley Victoria and the other a classic Chianti from Tuscany, both wines have beautiful cherry and plum fruits and a long warming earthy tone that goes superbly with our next snack the Beef Carpaccio with Parmigiano and saltbush.
Next up, like any true Italian is pasta, we opt for Pasta al Brasato Manzo – braised oxtail and beef cheek ragu with a very particular pasta shape called Mafaldine – it looks similar to a ribbon with curled wave like edges complementing the saucy ragu so we can enjoy each loaded bite perfectly. It is rich and indulgent in flavour from the slow braised meats but not heavy, washed down with the Chianti it feels like a little trip to Tuscany.
The place has a warm wooden eclectic décor, ambient candlelight and mixture of jazzy alt rock music that suits every occasion from date night, a midweek meal or taking the family out of the house for a meal that suits all ages and won’t cause mortgage stress. There are polaroids of happy regular guests and old family photos dating back to the grandparent’s arrival from Calabria to Manly in the 1950s. Mick explains one photo to us from when his grandparents owned a fruit market stall on the Corso. As he spoke the importance of the Manly community to his grandparents was clear and for the born and bred Manly brothers it’s just as true for them.
We squeezed in dessert and could not pass up the Tiramisu. Every Nonna claims their secret recipe is the oldest and the best, I’m not entering that argument. Make sure you don’t order one to share, not because it’s small, it’s just too good you’ll want the whole piece.
We agree with Mick when he says, “It’s all about rustic Italian made with love.”
We recommend
A Negroni cocktail to start with some Whipped Ricotta before enjoying a nice glass of Chianti paired with the Pasta Al Brasato Manzo and don’t forget the Tiramisu.
Visit belgravecartel.com.au to book your table now, follow @belgrave_cartel on Instagram and pop in to 6 Belgrave Street, Manly,the Bruzzese boys will take care of the rest.