The longstanding Northern Beaches darling, Pantry Manly is a beloved spot for locals and tourists alike with its unparalleled beachfront location. Yet, for years, it seemed the restaurant rested too comfortably on its laurels.
Despite the breathtaking views, the food often fell short, delivering an experience that was more about the scenery than the cuisine. However, the tides have turned. With the arrival of Chef Francesco Armillis, Pantry Manly has undergone a remarkable transformation, bringing the food in line with its stunning setting.
Chef Francesco Armillis hails from Italy. His culinary journey reads like a European gastronomic adventure. Having worked alongside some of Europe’s finest chefs, Armillis moved to Sydney in 1988 and quickly made a name for himself. His tenure at Monzu earned him accolades from renowned food critics Terry Durack and Scott Bolles. His stint at Vela Ristorante at the Spit secured him a spot in the first edition of ‘The International Who’s Who of Chefs,’ garnering recognition from Matthew Evans. Following a successful period at Popolo, one of Sydney’s most vibrant dining spots, Armillis now brings his expertise to The Pantry Manly, and the results are nothing short of extraordinary.
My dining experience at Pantry Manly began with chargrilled prawns adorned with gremolata and saffron aioli. The prawns were perfectly cooked, their smoky flavour complemented beautifully by the bright, zesty gremolata and the rich, luxurious saffron aioli.
Next came braised baby octopus with a basil crumble. Tender and flavourful, the octopus melted in my mouth, while the basil crumble added a delightful crunch and a fresh, herby note. This dish showcased Armillis’ ability to balance textures and flavours with finesse.
The fresh coral barramundi with crispy skin, served with witlof, taggiasche olives, and salsa verde, was a revelation. The fish was cooked to perfection, its crispy skin providing a satisfying contrast to the tender flesh. The witlof and olives added a briny, slightly bitter counterpoint, while the salsa verde brought the dish together with its vibrant, herbaceous brightness.
Perhaps the highlight of the meal was the egg squid ink linguine, studded with king prawns, juicy blue swimmer crab, asparagus, and finger lime. The linguine was cooked al dente, its briny, umami-rich flavour enhanced by the sweet, succulent prawns and crab. The asparagus added a crisp, fresh bite, while the finger lime provided bursts of citrusy zing that elevated the dish to new heights.
To finish, I indulged in a chocolate cannolo with yoghurt mousse, pistachio, and strawberry coulis. The cannolo was crisp and light, filled with a smooth, tangy yoghurt mousse that played beautifully against the rich chocolate and the sweet-tart strawberry coulis. It was the perfect ending to a truly spectacular meal.
The service at Pantry Manly was impeccable, the atmosphere lively, buzzing with the energy of diners who, like me, were thoroughly enjoying their experience. And, of course, the views of the ocean were as magnificent as ever.
Chef Francesco Armillis has breathed new life into Pantry Manly, transforming it from a place with a great view to a must-visit culinary destination. The combination of incredible food, outstanding service, and breathtaking scenery makes Pantry Manly a true gem on Sydney’s dining scene.
About the author
Faye James is an avid foodie and recipe developer, the author of cookbooks The Menopause Diet (2023), The 10:10 Diet (2019, and The Long Life Plan (2018) and is a food, beauty and health journalist with over 20 years of experience.
Follow Faye on Instagram @fayecelinejames